California’s North Coast Brewing Company has a lineup of several seasonal fruited Berliner Weisse style beers, which might be somewhat surprising as the brewery is perhaps best known for its Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout. I believe these sour beers were introduced only within the last several years, and the one that is currently in season is Tart Cherry.

North Coast had recently sent me a four-pack of the beer to sample, and I was impressed with it. If I had to sum up the drinking experience with a minimal description, I would say “cherry pie.” I’ve frankly been getting a bit burned out with the recent spate of American sour ales coming out of young breweries—too much acid, not enough balance or brewing knowledge—so this was a refreshing reminder of how good these beers can be.

According to the brewery:

North Coast Tart Cherry Berliner Weisse is made with the juice of Michigan Montmorency cherries, whose addition softens the lactic finish of the beer and gives it a springtime blush.

It’s 4.1% ABV and listed as having 0 IBUs—so no hops, I guess? This might help explain why the brewery bottled it in clear glass—no hops to become lightstruck. (Also I assume to highlight the color.)

Appearance: Red color that’s somewhat garnet-orange, and quite clear. The head is crisp, delicate, and even a little bit light pink. It fell quickly but there’s a steady stream of bubbles.

Smell: Subtle cherry notes, fresh fruit. Lightly earthy with a bit of bready crust, and with the fruit it reminds me of cherry pie.

Taste: Tart and puckering, particularly in the jowls, with a pronounced sour cherry flavor that’s fresh and pie-like. There is a good balance here, with a sweet stone fruit character tickling the back of the tongue, and a hint of creamy wheat in the aftertaste which contributes to a pie crust impression. Bracing tartness but not painfully acidic.

Mouthfeel: Crisp and light-bodied, with a tart and fruit finish leaving a kiss of acidity at the back.

Overall: Cherry pie! Without being cloyingly dessert-y and the Montmorency cherry character is well preserved.