There is particular weight attached to the term “old school” as a descriptor, often used in an approving way to refer positively to how things used to be, though in beer I’ve just as often seen or heard it used in more of a disparaging way, when it comes to beer styles. When I’ve seen an IPA referred to as an “old school IPA” there’s usually an asterisk attached that compares the “old” obsession with IBUs and bitterness as opposed to the balanced, lower IBU, hop-forward flavor and aroma that defines the current class of IPAs.

Sometimes such a throwback is welcome, a reminder to an earlier era (even if that era is only a decade or so) with a well-brewed beer properly showcasing a clean and bracing bitterness. It’s nostalgic in a good way, and makes you want to drink more. Sometimes… not so much.

Unfortunately, for me Beachmaster Imperial IPA from California’s North Coast Brewing is one of those beers that falls into that latter category. It’s a spring seasonal from the brewery, clocking in at 9% ABV and 100 IBUs, and North Coast had sent me a four-pack to sample. Here’s the description:

The Pacific Ocean and its rich variety of sea life is part of our daily experience here on the Mendocino Coast. Since the release of North Coast Brewing’s first beers in 1988, we have sought to reflect our love of the coastal world in our lively array of iconic beers.

Beachmaster, an Imperial IPA, is a tribute and companion to our flagship beer, Ruedrich’s Red Seal Ale, honoring the mighty Northern Elephant Seals that frequent our coast from Mexico to Alaska. Artist Mike Patrick, whose work has appeared on several of our labels including Red Seal Ale, Old No. 38 Stout, and North Coast Steller IPA, created the bull Elephant Seal illustration.

I love the label (as part of my recent commentary on branding and packaging) and I’ve always enjoyed North Coast’s beers as solid and reliable. Here are my notes:

Appearance: Pretty copper in color, mostly clear, turning to bright amber when held to the light. The head is off-white with fine bubbles, initially full then it collapsed quickly.

Aroma: Woody hop bitterness that borders on harsh, sweet candy floss of alcohol and heavy hopping, and more woody/astringent notes that come in at the end that almost make me think it’s old/stale.

Taste: There’s an old school bitterness right up front that makes me think long-boiled hops that is resiny and woody, full of hop stems and heavy handed. Lightly boozy hit of alcohol, with a “hop burn” to accompany it. The hops overwhelm the balance and go harsh and astringent, overpowering any malt contribution.

Mouthfeel: Medium-full body with a hint of alcohol heat, and a lingering hop astringency well into the aftertaste.

Overall: I really wanted to like this beer but ultimately it was a disappointment, mediocre at best. It tastes to me of old school (there’s that term again), poorly-handled imperial IPA hopping techniques like over-boiled hops. I didn’t see a bottling date, so maybe there’s an age issue here as well, but without knowing that I have to judge on the merits of what’s in the glass and the over-boiled hop astringency is off-putting to me.

I did drink all four bottles before posting this review to be sure my initial notes weren’t tainted by a single bottle issue. Unfortunately my impressions were the same for each. In the end, it was disappointing.