Review: Zupan’s/Ex Novo Farm to Market Imperial IPA

Zupan's/Ex Novo Farm to Market Imperial IPA

I like how Zupan’s Markets has continued its run of beer collaborations for its Portland-based markets, partnering with local (to Portland) breweries for its Farm to Market series of beers. The latest is Imperial IPA, brewed in partnership with Ex Novo Brewing, an 8% ABV ale brewed with all Centennial hops. The PR agency sent me two cans to sample, which are currently available from Zupan’s (both in-store and online).

The description of the beer reads:

A bold and crisp Imperial IPA, this beer features hand-selected Centennial hops from Yakima, WA, providing flavors of brilliant tangerine, lemon peel, and classic pine. Blending Pilsner and 2-row barley as well as a pinch of light caramel malt, provide this beer with deep yet crisp maltiness, allowing the Centennial hops to shine. Fermented with an American ale yeast allows makes for a dry finish yielding a pleasant and balanced bitterness. With an 8% ABV, this beer is excellent paired with grilled fare like bratwurst, salmon, and all things barbecue.

On top of the 8%, this IIPA is 77 IBUs. The cans were packaged on May 14, and I drank them in June, so they were fairly fresh.

Appearance: Copper-gold color with a light touch of haze likely revealing lack of filtration (as opposed to intentionally hazy). Nice burnished gold when held to the light. The head is fine, delicately lacy, and white.

Smell: Piney hops that are earthy and resiny, with some citrus and marmalade notes. Centennial hops bring that classic West Coast hop character , with lupulin and mellow citrus and pine, and it’s punctuated in the aroma by a sweet alcoholic/boozy note and bread crust malts.

Taste: There’s a big hop flavor up front that’s a bit fruity, floral, and even a bit vegetal in a drenched-in-bitter-greens kind of way. (I wrote “dripping in greens?” in my notes.) Peppery, spicy hop character with citrus pith bitterness. The malt is overshadowed in the flavor, and a bit of alcohol heat rises at the back of the throat. Caramelized bitter greens.

Mouthfeel: Medium-full body with a sweet-bitter finish, leaving a light hop burn aftertaste lingering on the tongue along with a touch of booziness.

Overall: A decently drinkable imperial IPA, though that vegetal hop note is a bit of a distraction. It’s not vegetal in the sense of overboiling the hoppy plant matter, but more that “hop burn” spiciness I think, which will absolutely appeal to people looking for that character.

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