A trio of winter red ale reviews

Winter ale trio with Widmer Brothers Brewing, Hopworks Urban Brewery, and Double Mountain Brewery

Judging by the contents of my beer fridge, it’s definitely holiday ale season. Among those beers are samples I’ve received of various Oregon breweries’ winter ale efforts, and interestingly, hoppy red ales make a not-insignificant showing. Here are my reviews of three winter red ales I received of late.

Widmer Brothers Brewing Brrr Hoppy Red

Widmer Brothers Brewing Brrr Hoppy Red

Widmer’s Brrr has been around for quite awhile (I first reviewed it in 2008) and while beers and recipes change over time, this one has remained fairly consistent with how I remember it tasting over the years. It’s 7.2% ABV with 50 IBUs. The description says:

Brrr is a one-of-a-kind winter warmer. Generously hopped, Brrr’s citrusy hop aroma and smooth bitterness exemplify the Northwest-style red ale. ‘Tis the season to warm up with a cold one.

The brewery sent me cans last month to sample; my notes:

Appearance: Deep amber with orange highlights, good clarity. Creamy, big, dense off-white or even light tan head.

Smell: Rich bready-caramel malts with piney and resinous hops that have a bit of snowy pine forest going on. Nicely toasty with some depth and old-school caramel/crystal malts.

Taste: Solid forest floor bitterness with pine pitch and spicy hop resins. Malt body has a toasted brioche quality, almost roasty, but not sweet—surprisingly dry. Hop flavors really lean into the resin and spiciness, almost to the point of minty; it’s quite “evergreen.” Pine hop finish.

Mouthfeel: Medium-bodied, smooth, with a dry, lingering pine-spice flavor long into the end.

Overall: Good, old school hoppy amber, and it just feels right for the season.

Hopworks Urban Brewery Abominable Winter Ale

Hopworks Urban Brewery Abominable Winter Ale

HUB’s Abominable is another of what I think of as these “new classic” winter ales, intensely hoppy with a recipe that hasn’t changed much since its debut. Over the years, A-bom has spawned barrel-aged versions (Kentucky Christmas, as well as others), a fresh hop version (read my notes on this year’s version of that), and other specialties and one-offs. I received a can from the brewery just over a month ago.

Abominable is 7.3% ABV with 70 IBUs, and the description says:

Abominable is a perfect blend of caramel malts and Simcoe, Azacca, and Centennial hops, creating a complex, spicy, and citrusy winter ale.

Appearance: Dark amber, nearly brown, translucent when held to the light. Ample light tan head, creamy and lacy, with good persistence.

Smell: Malty and toasty, with orange caramel and grapefruit peel fruitiness in the resinous hops. Touch of spicy pine, spritz of citrus oil.

Taste: Nicely bitter with a clean, oily hoppiness that coast the palate. Warming malty notes with some dried fruits and honey sweetness. Hops have a lightly fruity, citrusy-spicy flavor that’s a bit reminiscent of baby fir tips. Rich, with a lightly sweet graininess but finishes dry.

Mouthfeel: Medium-bodied, slightly (hop) oily, good warming dry finish.

Overall: Good interplay of malts and hops for a nicely balanced warming yet piney-spicy hopped ale.

Double Mountain Brewery Fa La La La La Winter Ale

Double Mountain Brewery Fa La La La La Winter Ale

Last but not least we have Double Mountain’s seasonal winter ale, the biggest of this bunch at 7.5% ABV and 85 IBUs. The brewery sent me a bottle as part of its rollout, with it being the second year that it’s available in six-packs of 12 ounce bottles (rather than the usual 500ml ones).

This is one that Double Mountain does explicitly call a winter IPA, though I still lump it into the “hoppy winter red” category as it’s so similar in profile to the others. The brewery’s description says:

Not every winter beer needs to be dark. In this spirit we bring you great tidings and joy with this year’s Fa La La La La. Centennial hops take the reins with evergreen and bright citrus, with resounding choruses of Pilsner and Crystal malts echoing in the refrain. This Winter IPA is full and rounded, delightfully aromatic, and as crisp as a bluebird winter morning. Peace, love, and beers.

Appearance: Orange-copper color with a bit of clarity. Off-white head with good lacing.

Smell: Sweet “hop candy” nose with candied orange peel, a light touch of malt toffee and caramelized sugar. Grainy with a bit of scone and toasty crystal malt. Lightly spicy and herbal.

Taste: Big hops presence up front with a striking, pungent bitterness. Spicy with a bit of menthol, perhaps even some wintergreen, and even hop burn with out the usual hazy IPA indulgence. Pretty clean malt body with a bit of Hawaiian sweet roll and brown sugar. Spicy, almost pipe? tobacco-like hops, with orange oil.

Mouthfeel: Medium body that’s almost medium-light; good attenuation for a dry finish. Long spicy-hoppy aftertaste.

Overall: Intense and hoppy-bitter, Double Mountain does not shy away from bittering hops here.

2 comments

  1. Jon….
    I enjoy your knowledge and reviews. I do have a question regarding winter ales. As I recall, over the years they traditionally have “had” a lower IBU count. This seems to be changing under the assumption (and maybe wrongfully in my case) that HOPPY is Better. Mmmmmm ???? What is your take on this?
    Thanks….Hank

    1. You’re not wrong, but it also depends on the style. I still see traditional winter warmers with relatively low IBUs, but these days trends seem to be for hoppier seasonals — winter/red IPAs and such. To many American brewers and beer drinkers, hoppy IS better, which is why IPA is still the top-selling craft beer style segment.

      Personally I still love malty, lower-IBU winter beers because for me, those rich flavors complement the colder season better. Though throw a good IPA like Sierra Nevada Celebration into the mix and I’m happy with that too! 🙂

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