A week ago we were in Bozeman, Montana, for a couple of days on a family-oriented trip, and didn’t have much time to check out the local beer scene. I was able to sample a couple of the local beers on tap at Dave’s Sushi (yes, a sushi place in Montana, and yes, it was quite good), Outlaw Brewing Gambler Amber and MAP Brewing Midas Crush. And on our last night in town, we ventured out to MAP Brewing, which was recommended by several people.

A bit of backstory first. Originally we were going to go to Montana Ale Works. I was under the impression that this was a brewery and restaurant, but once we got there it became apparent that no, it is only a restaurant with an extensive tap list, including local brews. And, apparently, the restaurant grows hops in its yard for local breweries to brew beer with (a là contract brewing?). But, no actual brewing happening on premise, alas.

And I found an interesting thing while I was asking the front of house staff about this. Apparently in Montana, alcohol laws are such that if you are a tasting room or restaurant with a brewery attached (in other words, any other standard brewery or brewpub we’d visit), the law dictates that you cannot serve alcohol after 8pm! As it was already 7:15pm when I was told this, we decided to pack up and head over to MAP in a hurry.

(I was wavering between MAP and Bridger Brewing, incidentally, but the FOH staff again said MAP was their favorite.)

So we hustled over to MAP which is on the north side of the I-90 freeway, on the edge of a small lake which was still frozen. We got there with some time to spare, probably around 7:25pm or so; last call was at 7:45pm, but our server was happy to get me started right away. So I ordered a taster tray of four beers, and told him I’d probably get another before they closed the taps.

Before I get to the beer, I have to say—with very little Montana experience otherwise—that I’d call the atmosphere of MAP industrial flair crossed with Montana lodge. Poured concrete floors, bare steelwork, low lights, giant wooden beams and ductwork dominated the space. A giant blown-up topo-style road map of Montana filled one wall, and a big wrought iron/scrapmetal moose head sculpture was placed above the fireplace. It was simultaneously rustic and brewpub-modern.

Let’s talk about the beers. My first four were:

• Ridge Hippy – Kölsch, 5.2% ABV, 22 IBUs. It was clear, grainy/grassy with a touch of fruity esters. Good, delicate spicy noble hop bite at the end.
• STrange Cattle – New England IPA, 6.5% ABV, 60 IBUs. Hazy and actually juicy, fragrant aroma—and I got more tropical/pineapple character than the Mosaic(ish) green onion that I usually taste in these beers (the onion is still a bit present). Seriously one of the best examples of this hazy NEIPA style that I’ve had—and I had to go all the way to Montana for it!
• Soul Charger – Scotch Ale, 6.8% ABV, 21 IBUs. Yes, the website says “Scottish Ale” but I’m going from the menu I had in front of me at the brewery. And yes, I know “Scotch Ale” isn’t really the proper styling either, but whatever. It was malty and lightly fruity/estery. Good rich leather malt notes in the aroma. Toffee-roasty malts have a hint of smoke but it’s nicely drinkable.
• Mushroom Stout – “Chantrelle Infused,” 6.2% ABV, 34 IBUs. On Untapped I found a beer named “Forager” which seemed to fit this, saying it’s the 80 Chain Oatmeal Stout infused with the mushrooms. Regardless I had to try it because it just looked too interesting as a seasonal not to. It was interesting; slightly sweet-but-roasty stout with an earthiness and hints of spiciness to it. Roasty, almost-burnt note with a cherry-like flavor at the back.

Those were my first four, and while I was working on them, Sherri got a taster of the seasonal Coconut Rum Stout and we liked it enough to get a snifter. I’ll cover that last in my notes here, because I ordered by second four-beer taster before last call. They were:

• Dark Star – Dark Cherry Lager, 7.4% ABV, 21 IBUs. Seasonal. Different, not bad. No notable aroma character that I could detect, it was clean. Lightly fruity on the tongue, with some cherry cola-like flavor, otherwise not terribly notable.
• Fumble on the One – IPA collaboration with Draught Works Brewing, 7.2% ABV, 65 IBUs. Fragrant, sweaty hops in the aroma which goes into the flavor with a dank herbal note.
• Steep Terrain – Double IPA, 8.5% ABV, 95 IBUs. Old school-ish DIPA, low hops in the aroma (favors more of the malt) but more hop bitterness on the palate as I’d expect. Spicy greens, lightly boozy, big, classic double IPA maltiness in a good way.
• Mole Stout – Chili pepper and cocoa, 6.2% ABV, 34 IBUs. I suspect the Oatmeal Stout again is the base. Smoky, light ashtray, head from chilis is evident in the aroma. Dark chocolate/cocoa. Flavor is restrained with a touch of ashy char, very mellow, very mild bloom of heat at the back but “ashy” is the prevailing descriptor.

And finally, that Coconut Rum Stout. This was a big imperial stout at 12% ABV and 65 IBUs that was aged in rum barrels, just as it sounds. Toasted coconut dominates the nose with light booziness. Sweet, rich, chocolatey—with coconut, like a Mounds candy bar. Quite smooth, even with a light backwash of alcohol heat in the nose. Big, full-bodied, rich dessert beer. Worth getting if it’s still available when/if you visit.

Alcohol service ended at 8pm, but we had until 9pm to finish up (they were cleaning up and putting chairs upside down on tables when we left, and you couldn’t have gotten in after 8, so we appreciated the accommodation). We has also ordered a salad and a giant plate of nachos (even though we weren’t particularly hungry) which were good.

One thing I will note, the low light was a bit detracting to the evening experience, especially as I was trying to write as it got progressively darker outside and with the dim interior lighting, the room was awfully dim. This probably isn’t much of a problem to most patrons who are just enjoying the beers and not trying to see to write notes, but it’s worth mentioning.

Overall though, I quite liked the visit and thought the beers were good and the atmosphere was comfortable. I’m glad we were able to sneak in before the ridiculously early last call, and if I find myself in Bozeman again I would definitely return.

(For more on Montana liquor laws, check out The Field Guide to Drinking in America, by Niki Ganong. It doesn’t mention the 8pm cutoff, but does say that brewpubs and taprooms can only serve 3 pints of beer to a single person, per day. I wonder how close I got with my taster trays and the snifter?)

MAP Brewing Company
510 Manley Dr.
Bozeman, MT 59718
(406) 587-4070