Crammed as efficiently as possible, Unit 4 is an immaculate little 15-barrel brewhouse acquired from a defunct Indiana firm. Owner Jim Quilter, as affable as his beers are quaffable, runs the operation with some administrative help from his wife, Cheryll….
His ales are damn good. Rodeo Extra Pale is a balanced, light-copper-colored session bitter; Iron Horse Brown is accessible and malty-sweet without being cloying; Locomotive Red also has plenty of malt, but the hops come out to play, too, with late-addition and dry-hop aromas provided by Cascades and Centennials. Quilter doesn’t ignore hop fiends; his IPA is laden with citrusy Cascade and Columbus hop notes and is a well-attenuated beer that finishes quite dry.
Ellensburg is about the halfway point on I-90 between Seattle and Spokane. About the only thing I remember about it is that it was supposedly a notorious speed trap, because you came upon the town suddenly and had to slow down in a hurry—which of course many people didn’t.