The Brew Site

Apocalypse Beer: Your first brew

In many homebrewing books there is often an early chapter that covers the very basics of brewing your first batch of beer, guiding you through the process and fully explaining each step. That’s what this is: a step-by-step guide to brewing your first batch of Apocalypse Beer, starting with the simplest possible recipe: Sugar Beer.

While the essence of fermentation is in fact the conversion of all kinds of sugars into alcohol by yeast, in this case “Sugar Beer” means exactly what it sounds like with just three ingredients: white table (or cane) sugar, water, and yeast. I’ve picked this as the “simplest possible” recipe for several reasons:

The recipe presented here is for a one-gallon batch of beer; to make more you will be able to scale it up proportionally.


To begin with, let’s go over the minimum equipment you will need to brew your Sugar Beer.


Step by Step

  1. Fill your boiling pot with one gallon of water and place it on the heat.
  2. Stir in the sugar as the water warms, until the sugar dissolves completely.
  3. Continue to stir periodically as you bring the mixture (known as the wort) up to a boil.
  4. In the case of our Sugar Beer we only need the wort to come to a boil (it should be a full boil, not just a simmer) and then we can remove it from the heat—remember, simply bringing a liquid to a boil is enough to kill any pathogens, you don’t have to boil it for a longer period of time. Of course, when you add more ingredients and components to your beer, you may want or need to boil it longer to extract the desired characteristics from those ingredients; but in the case of this Sugar Beer only sugar and water are present and neither benefits from an extended boil.
  5. Once the boil is achieved, remove the pot from the heat.
  6. You must allow the wort to cool before adding (“pitching”) your yeast, otherwise you will kill the yeast. The simplest method is to place a lid on the pot, set it out of the way and let it cool on its own. However, the quicker you can cool it down the better, as other organisms (bacteria, other wild yeasts) will have a greater chance of infecting the beer the longer it sits. There are several ways you can speed up the cooling process, including:
    1. Place the pot in a cold water bath (a shallower tub or pan filled with cold water, and ice if you have it)
    2. If there is a running stream or creek nearby, place the pot in a shallow part of the water (you don’t want to submerge it, after all, and let more water in), in the current if possible
    3. Place the bot into a snowbank (if convenient)
    4. Alternatively, you could have pre-boiled a half gallon of water by itself to sterilize it, let it cool (this can be done overnight), and then boil the other half gallon of water with the sugar; then add the hot wort to the rest of the cool water to bring it up to a gallon
  7. If possible, re-hydrate the yeast in a half cup or so of warm water. This only applies to dried yeast, obviously, such as packets brewing or baking yeast or the jars of backing yeast—they look like granules, and you simply need to add about 1 tablespoon (or the entire packet) to the water. The granules will absorb the water and expand, and start looking blob-like.
  8. Pre-apocalypse, it was common brewing knowledge that the “ideal” temperature to pitch your yeast was between, say 55 and 75 degree Fahrenheit. Post-apocalypse, this is great if you have a thermometer to measure the actual temperature of the wort; however we can’t count on one being available so we need some other gauges to tell us what a good pitching temperature would be. We’ll cover that in more detail later but for now you can roughly tell by feel:
    1. “Blood warm”: the method used to gauge if a warmed baby bottle full of milk was just right—dabble a little on your inner wrist. If it is comfortably warm, not scalding, then it’s safe to pitch the yeast. Unless you have nerve damage this should be a fairly intuitive method, and I’d consider it the upper end of the temperature scale (i.e., never pitch if the wort is hotter than this).
    2. Likewise if the wort (or the pot) is cool to the touch, but not cold, then you can probably consider this a safe lower end to the scale and pitch accordingly. If the wort is too cold, it won’t kill the yeast but they may stay dormant or sluggish and not ferment as expected.
  9. Transfer the wort to your fermenter. Take care not to spill any!
  10. Pitch (add) the yeast into the wort in the fermenter.
  11. Cover the fermenter with lid if possible, or cloth if necessary, or if possible seal it up with an airlock.
  12. Now the waiting begins. Fermentation can begin anywhere from several hours to 24 hours, and depending on the type of container and cover or airlock your fermenter is, you may see visible activity of fermentation in process: bubbles of gas escaping the airlock, fizzy bubbles rising and breaking on the top of the fermenting beer, perhaps even some foam on the top.
  13. Unless it’s very warm where you are, which would speed up this process, it’s likely going to take several days for the fermentation to finish; anywhere from 2 to 7 days is acceptable. When the observed fermentation activity from the previous step has subsided, it’s likely complete; most or all of the yeast will have collected on the bottom of the fermenter, and you can focus on bottling.
  14. If you want to carbonate the beer in the bottles, keep in mind there may still be enough residual sugars to do so: the remaining yeast in the beer that makes it to the bottles will consume those remaining sugars and produce carbon dioxide which causes the beer to be carbonated—fizzy. If you’re not worried about carbonating it, that’s fine, however you can initiate this as well to make sure the beer gets fizzy:
    1. You will mix a measured about of sugar water into the beer at bottling time. The ideal way of doing this is to mix a small amount of sugar in a half cup of water, bring it to a boil if possible (and cool it down!), and add that to the beer. For this one gallon of beer, you should use only 2 tablespoons of sugar for this.
  15. If you have some plastic tubing or hose, the bottling process will go easier, but if not then you will definitely need a funnel. In either case the goal is to transfer the beer from the fermenter to the bottles and leave as much of the “trub” behind (the yeast that dropped to the bottom) as possible.
    1. With tubing you can siphon the beer from the fermenter directly into your bottles or containers; there’s a decent possibility that you’ve been siphoning fuel from abandoned cars so ideally you should be familiar with it. You can carefully siphon the beer directly from the fermenter to the bottles—it will take some practice to not overfill and minimize spills.
    2. If you only have the funnel option, you will first want to pour the beer from the fermenter to another container (your boiling pot will work just fine), taking care to not disturb the trub in the bottom as much as possible. Then, from the new container, carefully pour the beer into the bottles using your funnel, taking care not to overfill and slop the beer.
    3. If you are mixing sugar into the beer to carbonate as described in step 14 above, you should transfer the beer to the container mentioned just above regardless if you’re using the siphoning or funneling technique, and then add the sugar water to mix it with the beer. This will yield more consistent carbonation among the bottles than trying to add on a per-bottle basis. (Which is viable, but not always as effective.)
  16. Seal up the bottles using caps, lids, corks, or whatever you are using.
  17. If you’re not waiting for carbonation to form, the beer is drinkable now. If you are waiting for the beer to become carbonated, you will have to wait up to a week or two before drinking.

And there you are—you have brewed your first batch of beer! What you will likely find with this Sugar Beer is that the finished product has a “cidery” character to it: similar to apple cider fruitiness. (This is somewhat particular to how white sugar by itself ferments.) It may also be sweet and yeasty and will be fairly “thin” in mouthfeel—how it feels in your mouth, on your tongue.

Some numbers (don’t worry, these numbers will mean more to you as you progress): 1 pound of cane sugar in water has a specific gravity of 1.046, which means on a practical level you will likely end up with a beer that has an alcohol content of anywhere from 3 to 5.5% by volume. For higher levels of alcohol, you can increase the amount of sugar per gallon, but one thing to keep in mind is that yeast will only work up to a certain point (potentially an upper limit of 10-18% alcohol by volume).

Remember, this is the most basic beer recipe possible that we’ve started with, and it’s a fairly blank canvas; start thinking about ways you could add to this recipe. What about adding herbs, spices, fruits, berries, other sources of sugars like molasses or honey? In fact many old beer recipes follow this very pattern, of using plain sugar as the fermentable base and adding other ingredients for their particular character, or flavor, nutritive, and/or medicinal qualities. We’ll be covering all these in detail later.

And of course, you may not have easy (or any) access to sugar by itself; in that case, you will need to know how to extract the sugars from other sources—essentially, because fermentation requires sugar, we’ll figure out how to ferment (almost) anything, and will cover all manner of these “fermentables” in detail later as well.

Finally, start thinking about equipment. The list outlined above covers the bare essentials you’ll need to brew beer, but there is other additional equipment that will be helpful if not essential in making the brewing process easier and the beer better. We will (of course!) be covering equipment in detail as well—and if necessary ideas on how to improvise and/or build your own with whatever materials you have on hand (given that brewing equipment may not be available in the post-apocalyptic world).

In the meantime, cheers to your first beer!